With the notes from our tour guide in hand, we headed for the ocean for a few day’s trip. Well, it wasn’t exactly the ocean, but man, it sure looked like it.
My wife and I left southern Indiana the day before our 21st wedding anniversary and made the 4.5 hour trip to northern Indiana. Our destination was the Indiana Dunes. The trip took us up Interstate 65, past Indianapolis, Lafayette (where we grabbed lunch and gas) and eventually to Merrillville. This was our first agenda item provided by my unofficial tour guide, Mark. This little town is nothing special, but it has one gem Mark persuaded me to visit. The Albanese Candy Store. I was told many times “You have to stop” and was even told if I didn’t I would get “an F on Mark’s travel tour guide class”. With that kind of pressure, I had no choice. Might I say this place is outstanding with so many sugary delicious treats.
After arriving at the hotel, unloading and checking in, we quickly departed for one of the many sights we came here for. First was the Portage Lakefront and River walk. This was our first sight of the ocean. Honestly, we were on the south shore of Lake Michigan, but the vastness of this body of water to the human eye is easily mistaken for an ocean. One of the 5 great lakes, it creates its own weather systems, has dangerous rip currents, has white sand beaches, and very high waves. The water can be bright or dark blue, there are seagulls, massive boats and even lifeguard stands on the beaches.
We walked around a bit, but most of the area was closed off as they were repairing the beach. We then moved on to the next stop. The Indiana Dunes National Park West and Indiana Dunes State Park are very close, so we hit those areas next. As the temperature hovered in the low fifties and the wind was twenty plus miles per hour, I was in my element. My wife bundled up like she was in a blizzard. A winter coat, gloves, toboggan and even her hoodie on, kept her comfortable. I had a t-shirt and a light jacket. Never gloves for me, but I had a baseball cap on (when it was not too windy).
The skies were gray and overcast, so we eventually made our way to a local eatery where my wife dines on a quesadilla burger and I tackled the Amy burger. I recommend eating here if you are ever in the area. It was delicious.
The next morning we got moving early and headed back to the Dunes. Locations like Indiana State Park, Mt. Baldy (tallest dune at 126ft.), and a drive to Michigan City, Indiana followed. We drove further and arrived in St. Joseph, Michigan to view the lighthouse and even stopped at Silver Harbor Brewery for one of the best BLT’s I have ever had.
With Marcie as our navigator we took freeways, side roads and found ourselves on dead-end roads often. Marcie relied on Google to get us to our next destination, but it often lead us to roads that were closed and blocked off, or just ended, even though Google was showing them open. One road took us past an old church that someone converted to their home. The road we were on was a small two-lane road, surrounded by marsh and dead trees on both sides. We traveled about 2 miles and I heard my navigator Marcie say “turn right up here”. As we reached the intersection, there were chains blocking the road ahead, to the left and to the right. Nowhere to go but back. As we turned around, I said “this is how many horror movies start”, Marcie quickly said “you are here to protect me”. I thought, but who will protect me? I am just glad it was during the day. Click on the two links above to see what I am talking about.
Driving along these minor roads through small towns was so refreshing. The bright colors of fall were at their peak. When the sun snuck out from behind the clouds, the bright oranges and yellows almost hurt my eyes. Being used to southern Indiana, these small quaint towns in both Indiana and Michigan provided me with a sense of peace and calm. I felt I could drive forever and explore.
I drove the shoreline on the Red Arrow Highway, going through small towns named New Buffalo, Bridgman, Stevensville, Shoreham, Shorewood, Michiana Shores and countless others. I treated my eyes to views of old and new homes. Tiny homes and large homes. We saw people walking, running, and riding bikes. I pulled off at a few parks along the route to jump out and see the massive lake. Each stop brought a new perspective. Sometimes a small secluded beach, others a few people walking on a larger beach. Some had piers, others play areas. Some had lifeguard shacks, others warned of no lifeguards and signs posted for dangerous rip currents. All had this massive choppy water lake before me.
On some stops we climbed sand dunes (where allowed) and even saw a wind surfer in a wetsuit get in the water at Tiscornia Park. Keep in mind the temperature was 55 degrees (air) and 67 degrees (water). I spent more time (out of curiosity really), watching him set up his sail, get his board set up, and multiple attempts to clip into his board while the wind and his sail drug him across the beach. After multiple attempts he was off, and all alone in this massive lake. Both Marcie and I displayed concern for his safety, being all alone in the cold surf which was boasting 6+ foot waves, but he seemed to know what he was doing. I can report that later, further down at Silver Beach, at a different stop, we in fact saw four wind sails, including his in the air. He was alone no more.
Silver Beach is where I took one of my favorite pictures on the trip. An empty lifeguard stand sat all alone in the white sand. I angled my shot to get the St. Joseph North Pier Lighthouse (as seen in the shot above) in the background and took the shot. I have both a color and monochrome version of this, and likely will end up framing it for display in my house. For once, I think I like the color version better. If you zoom in here and move a bit, to the left of Wally and Gertz shack you will see the stand I shot.
As we continued down Red Arrow Highway, we stopped again at another park named Lions Park Beach when we saw a guy in the water, up to his chin, with only a swimsuit on. Remember the water is 67 degrees, the surf is 4-6 foot, and this dude is in the water up to his chin. Marcie and I both stated simultaneously, “he is nuts”. I can report we got slightly turned around (another dead end road) and once we back on course, we saw the swimmer walking up the sidewalk with a t-shirt on and a towel over his head. I love the cold, but there are limits even for me.
I had a memorable time with my wife. The cool crisp air, the sights and sounds. Everything was so magnificent. It was a beautiful area, and because of the time of the year, we often were all alone or had very few people around us. I took photographs (Marcie did too), and we just so much enjoyed our time together. I know she took this trip for me, but I hope she too got something out of it. This is not a highly sought after tourist attraction (well during this time of year), which made it even more special to me. I was so glad Mark guided us, but it also thrilled me my wife went with me. She is seeing why Mark and I enjoy our trips together. This is all the things we end up doing on our adventures.
There was no agenda, only a suggested guide of “place to see”, no timetable, no waiting in line, not following the herd. Just my wife and I climbing the dunes, driving to places that looked interesting, holding hands and experiencing the fall in all its glory. We were in ah, but respected the massive power of Mother Nature and the forces that drive Lake Michigan. We spent this time together.
P.S. click on the links in the story above to see the areas I mentioned.
Until next time,
Tim (a. k. a. Kilmer)
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