Day 2;
4:15 am comes early as it did this Thursday morning. I had no idea that this one day I would walk/hike 8.5 miles, take 17,853 steps and burn 3500 calories. Did I mention 4:15 am comes early? Why did we get up so early? We planned to travel 30 minutes from the hotel to a location to catch the sunrise. That location was Max Patch Bald. As we left the highway we turned on a two-lane road, and then made a turn on a side road called Max Patch Road. Maybe 100 yards down this side road the pavement turned to gravel. The gravel had potholes. The Jeep’s suspension was tested. The road was a slow ascent in the pitch black. The headlights illuminated our path ahead but to both, the left and right was a blanket pure darkness provided by the trees. Almost every horror movie I have watched has at least one scene where lowly travelers travel down this type of road.
Soon we reached a small gravel parking lot as the rain started to fall. The light had started to brighten and we knew today would not provide us any sunrise pictures. Disappointed yet not daunted we sat in the Jeep listening to the rain rhythmically dance on the roof above. After about 20 minutes, we decided it was clear enough to head up. We unloaded grabbed our raincoats and made our way down the trail. A bald is another name for a hilltop that is clear of trees and bushes. About 1/4-1/2 mile above us I could see the bald. Mark explained there was a path that went straight up, but it was closed due to deterioration of the land and we would be taking the designated path that wound around and would take us to the top. It was 6:40 am.
Once again the anticipation grew withinside me as we moved along this mostly dirt and partially rocky path. To both sides that were thick thorn buses and we were serenaded with calls from some local birds. Mark and I chatted a bit, but for the most part, there was silence, as we soaked it all in. All thoughts left me. I did not worry, no anxiety, literally no thoughts. My breath was heavy due to the altitude, but I was at peace. We continued along the trail as it slowly snaked its way onward and upward, and soon Mark stopped and turned to me and quietly stated: “there it is.” He was not referring to our final destination, but something I told him I wanted to do. Something on my ‘Bucket List’. Our trail about 10 feet in front of me intersected the Appalachian Trail (AT). Mark asked, and I accepted his offer to take my picture standing next to an AT sign. The trail was no different than hundreds of other trails I have hiked on, but for me, this was something special. It was something I wanted and set out to do and I did it. I respect those that have completed the 2200 trek and honored them by stopping for a brief moment at this intersection. I now can happily say I hiked ON the AT. I will quickly correct anyone I tell, as this is different than saying I hiked the AT (which implies they completed the route).
We continued on the AT another ¼ mile uphill until we could begin to make out two figures backlit by the sky on top of the hill. I snapped this shot and if you can make it out there are two tiny figures in the middle. We would be there soon, but at the moment we had more steps to climb. Eventually, we reached the top and though there was no visible sunrise, the views took my breath away (or maybe it was the altitude or climb). Every direction I looked I was the tallest object for miles (I’m taller than Mark). There were peaks and valleys, ominous (yet calming) storm clouds, and for me, I felt a sense of being. Whatever life has thrown at me, it pales in comparison to the vastness of what I was witnessing before me.
We stayed for maybe 30-45 minutes then one of those ominous clouds was heading in our direction. We could see the rain falling and the area between the mountain top and the bottom of the cloud disappeared. It was headed straight for us. It was time to go. Remember that closed trail? Well no-one was looking and we made a b-line down it to safety. I might also add just in time as well. I taught Mark something as well. The gravel road we traversed on the way up, as well as the parking lot were in different states. The road was mainly in North Carolina, as well as Max Patch Bald. The parking lot and sign were in Tennessee. If you look on this map, you will see the trail that is marked was closed (we took it back down), but from the parking lot, down (on the map) and to the right if you zoom in you can make out the trail we took, which eventually intersects the AT. It was now around 8:30 am and we hopped back in the Jeep, headed down Max Patch Road and off to the next location. The Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP).
After a short drive, we arrived at the southern terminus of the BRP. We were at mile marker 469 and only a few feet from the start a sign welcomed us to this iconic highway. This two-lane paved road snakes through the mountains from North Carolina (where we were) to Virginia. The views are beyond words, and the topography and as I will soon explain the weather can change in a moment’s notice. The road elevation ranges from 600 to 6053 feet. As we experienced we saw, cars, trucks, bicycles, motorcycles, hikers, campers and plenty of observers. There are no commercial vehicles allowed on the BRP and at least for me is greatly appreciated.
Mark’s yellow Jeep began the ascent to mile marker 451 as listed in my guide book, given to me and handwritten by Mark. Our destination was the Water Rock Knob. We arrived at the visitor center and went inside to look around. The usual items were for sale (t-shirts, hats, magnets, coffee mugs, posters, postcards, etc.), educational material abound, but soon we walked across the parking lot and up the trail. The trail was steep (I was warned), but not bad as the path was paved, or so I thought. The trail is listed at 1.2 miles roundtrip to the top with two outlooks. I soon discovered the first overlook is where the pavement stopped. That was about .4 miles into the 1.2-mile journey. From there the rocks became steps, the roots became tripwires and trees of various shapes and sizes became our handrails. .6 miles is not a lot, but when you are hiking to the highest elevation of 6273 feet (highest point on the parkway), my lungs and legs felt every step. .6 miles felt like 6 miles. The parking lot was located at 5820 feet (one mile+ above sea level). As we reached the top trees partially blocked the 360-degree view but the open areas were gorgeous. The wind began to pick up quickly and as our early morning hike, we could see and feel a storm headed our way. The air temp was dropping, and rapidly, the steady wind speeds increased and the skies above (and below us) darkened. Let me tell you there is nothing like being completely exposed with a storm rolling in to reveal your vulnerabilities. We both snapped a few shots and Mark said “you ready to head back down?”, I nodded as I was thinking the same thing. About ¼ of the way down the rain started. We stopped under a large cedar tree for some cover (from the rain, not wind), and while sitting there about 3 feet above Mark’s head I noticed a nest in the tree. The rain let up and we headed on back down, but the thought of that nest stayed with me for a while. What a wonderful place to live, but as we saw, what a treacherous one it could be, as well.
Our next location was at mile marker 422 and it was aptly named Devil’s Courthouse. Sounds appealing, right? Mark informed me the hike was steep, but it was paved. He was right. On the link above there is a video. From the parking area we could see two people standing at the place we would eventually be. It was far away and we could barely make them out. We had another 300+ foot climb in front of us and we headed out. Destination 5720 above sea level. The path paralleled the BRP for a bit then made a sharp right into the woods. These woods were different. There were a lot of cedar trees, many blown down by the wind, but even with the full sun, I could only see a few feet into the woods. Again my horror movie mind began to wonder, but I wasn’t scared, just fascinated. It made me think of a quote. “Woods are not like other spaces…. They make you feel small…. Like a small child lost in a crowd of strange legs. Stand in a desert or prairie and you know you are in a big space. Stand in the woods and you only sense it. They are vast featureless nowhere. And they are alive.” – Bill Bryson.
Unlike previous hikes, our views going to the summit were masked by these trees, which added to the anticipation. A few breaks to catch my breath, and finally, we reached the summit. Like opening a curtain in the bright sunlight, we immersed from the canopy of darkness to the views of peaks and valleys. The ground at the summit was a solid uneven rock with ridges left by a millennium of pounding weather. Surrounding us was a rock wall. The wall in places was 4 foot high in other 2 foot high. I was looking around snapping a couple of shots when I walked over to one side of the wall. My acrophobia hit me. My stomach dropped, I was instantly nauseous, my throat appeared to close, and my heart was pounding. I said nothing and slowly stepped back. It took a bit of time but I talked my mind off the ledge (pun intended). I learned the hard way in which way I could look and which way I could not. We spent some time looking around, reviewing the markers that told you what peaks were nearby and then headed back to the Jeep that appeared smaller than a Hot wheel from where we standing.
Two miles away we arrived at my favorite place, though I didn’t know it at the time. We had arrived at Black Balsam Knob (well the parking area for it). I picked up a rock located at 1:54 on this video. More on that in a bit. From the Jeep, we walked a few feet and were on the Art Loeb Trail which meandered through the woods, across some plains, over rocks and eventually to our summit. The beginning of the trail (where we were) again placed us in the forest, but unlike the previous hike these cedar trees were thin and a carpet of needles blanketed the ground. The light showed through and it reminded me of what northern California might look like. As we continued on the trees disappeared and we are on an open plain. This topography reminded me of a desert, other than the 55-degree temperature. Off ahead of us I could see one lone giant tree as seen here at 2:01. We reached the tree passed it and I turned around to take my shot. I love the trees. What I had not noticed was behind us the fog was rolling in. In front of us were some large rocks (1:01) and we made our way up to them. As we stood there and photographed the fog rolled toward us. We both marveled at the sites before us. The dark green trees in front and below us and blue/grey fog heading our way. The contrasts of light and color added to my love of monochrome photography. Some of my favorite shots happened at that moment. Mark and I stood in anticipation of the fog rolling in and engulfing us, but as nature always does it surprised us. Just as the fog seemed to be within arm’s reach it dissipated. Waves of fog kept rolling towards us, but each time they disappeared, only feet from us. After a while, we turned and headed up to the next peak where we saw a plaque for Art Loeb. The 30.1-mile trail we were standing on was named after him. The sights were great but for me, I was in love with the previous summit just below us. Mark explained that the next peak over was Sam’s Knob and it was similar to where we were standing, so we agreed to skip it. We made our way back down the trail and as we reached the area where the waves of fog hit us, I picked up a rock. I told Mark I intended to take that rock home to Gavin, give him the coordinates, and ask him to someday return the rock. At age 15 I don’t think he will be mature enough to understand, but I hope someday I can give it to him and he can return it for me and see the beauty I saw in this place. I have the coordinates of the location I grabbed the rock.
We headed back to the car and as we entered the forest between the parking area and the plains, a perfect opportunity appeared to answer the call of nature. Guys are lucky in that sense. I will not say which of nature called, but I soon found myself alone on the trail being greeted by three hikers. They told me they were on day two of the 30.1 mile Art Loab trail, having already gone 9 miles today. I wished them luck as they moved on and then I saw Mark entering the trail again. We walked back to the car and headed to the next location on our agenda. Skinny Dip Falls.
Mark had tried to go to Skinny Dip Falls multiple times, but as the link and video indicate it is always crowded, so he never went. With today’s temps hovering in the 50’s I felt we would be safe. We were. The overlook had a sign noting Skinny Dip Falls, but there were no signs to the trail or even what direction to go. Google provided a starting point for us, our ears did the rest. About 50 feet into the trail we say a 20 something kid, obviously wet, heading in our direction. I asked how far the falls were and he said “about 15-minute hike but it’s worth it”. He was right. We followed the path that twisted and flowed like a stream through the woods. The roar of water got louder and louder as we approached. We reached a descending staircase that opened up to a small platform. That was when our eyes were witnessing the mighty power of the falls. Mark has a love for waterfalls, I have a love for nature and trees. Both of us were awed and in love with this place. The best part is we had it to ourselves. This video may show you some of what we experienced (not the girl), and yes the water was that clear.
Our next and last visit of the day was Soco Falls. Marcie and I had been there with Gavin two years ago, and Mark had never been. It was nice to treat him to someplace he had never been. We spent some time there, Mark got some shots and then we headed to eat and back to the hotel. As mentioned I got close to 18k steps this day and both Mark and I felt it. It was a great day but we were both exhausted.
Until next time,
Tim
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